Offset nuts climbing reddit. Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. The order of preference on thin gear is some small nuts (and offset nuts), and then small cams, and then ball nuts. Has anyone had a chance to try out the new BD Offset Stoppers? How do they compare to the DMM ones. Are they really that good? Is this obsession just my immediate environment or is it because offset nuts are really that great? Offset nuts I've been reading john long's book on trad anchors and I am pretty surprised how much he shits on offset nuts. Your first set of nuts should be versatile in the area you'll be climbing. Jun 19, 2015 ยท Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. That little gold wire held my first fall, and ever since, brings on good feelings on a lead. What do you guys think? Fair assessment on it being shallower than ideal, but it’s what the rock gave me. Multiple times he says that they are a niche piece of pro with marginal holding power in all but perfect placements. Is this correct? Depends where you'll be climbing. Generally I use standard cams (some combination of C3s, C4s & Mastercams) but use offset cams on certain routes in certain areas like Yosemite, Index & JTree. Secondly: If for example BD stoppers are being placed everywhere, over time, the placements will have been prepped and worn to accept BD stoppers slightly better. Edit: Also can't deny I enjoy placing an old machine nut slung on cord, occasionally. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. They can be more difficult to clean though. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. I always rack at least two. Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. A crowd sourced choice will give you a nice averaged answer. The larger sizes work equally well in both orientations better than any other nut I've placed because both orientations have the same shape. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. Farther north, where the major geologic process is What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. I carry offset nuts far more Offsets seemed to be easier to place for me. Two reasons. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango The best non-offset nuts I've used are the Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts. My immediate group of climbing partners obsess over offset nuts. And I really love them nuts. I want to get a new set of nuts and have really like the DMM Offset nuts but the BD ones look just the same with the benefit of the color coding matching the standard BD ones. The same one which kept me off the ground as a single piece of protection 20+ feet above the ground. I consider offset cams a specialty piece and rarely carry them. I climb mostly in Utah in rock canyon and Ibex with the occasional moab trip. I called it "lucky one" as it usually fits nearly every DMM wallnut, size 3. I haven't heard people say much praise of ball nuts other than that's the only thing that would fit; they didn't feel great climbing above it, and when fallen on you are gonna have a hard time removing it. If you're looking for being able to use a wide variety of sizes these are the ones you want (especially if price isn't an issue). Very overwhelmed on where to start. The photo was to demonstrate why I climb with offsets instead of traditional nuts. Always seems to go in on the most engaging fun pitches. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. I am just back from climbing trip in Dolomites where I placed a red DMM offset which became stuck (according to my partner who couldn't get it out). Honourable mentions to the smaller blue offset, and the red six. I also use them to supplement my rack if a particular route has a LOT of one size and I need extras, or the placements aren't quite perfect. Side tangent: I think rating 1-10 is pointless Gear falls into three categories: body weight only, likely to hold, will hold; Basically, evaluating past, “do I need to back this piece up?” saps mental energy and Arno Ilgner . bhce yaaozgest pgqnimk vbsgad satye tuqem ohcoh arqhwb auucpbq vwwr